24 hours in Lifou

At the gîte Au Coeur de Lito, our initiation into a traditional Kanak hut stay became a lasting memory. Nestled in the serene Drueulu tribe, this haven comprises two inviting paillotes and a spacious family hut accommodating up to eight people.

Beyond the cozy lodging, our interactions with the locals and the damper-making session with Theodore added a fantastic touch to our stay. While mastering our host’s technique proved a challenge, we embraced the learning experience.

Drifting off to sleep in the quiet of this traditional Kanak hut and waking up to the aromas of a homemade breakfast enhanced our overall stay.

Steven and I had the pleasure of sampling a local delicacy: coconut crab. Our gracious host guided us through the art of relishing this unique treat, using a small branch as improvised cutlery. His warm presence elevated the entire meal, rendering it an unforgettable experience.

Fun fact: The coconut crab, renowned for its agility, is adept at climbing trees, particularly coconut palms and other varieties (hence its name). Even the smallest specimens can skilfully grasp a coconut and carefully extract its meat, showcasing their resourcefulness.

To reach Le Traon table d’hôte, look for the large Kanak flag and turn left!

This unique adventure was a first for me, and I have no regrets! Situated in the northeast of Lifou, the Grotte du Diable is a site steeped in history, where human bones and skulls bear witness to ancient cannibalistic practices.

Our guide, a charming elderly gentleman who stepped in for his son, led the tour exceptionally well. After a 10-minute walk, enriched with detailed explanations from our guide, we climbed up using ropes to reach the cave.

We were immediately struck by the beauty of the place. The interplay of light and shadow cast onto the rock faces created a spectacular natural backdrop that we won’t soon forget.

In Lifou, legend has it that the devil has taken up residence in the Tingeting cave. Avoid wandering around at night, or you might incur a curse.

While the trail is very straightforward, we still recommend wearing closed-toe shoes.

Drehu Village, a wondrous 3-star hotel in Lifou, holds a special place in our hearts. This wasn’t our first visit, and its enchanting setting—bungalows opening onto Chateaubriand Beach—and the warm hospitality of the staff keep drawing us back.

The quality of service at this three-star gem is very satisfying, and the staff’s warm welcome leaves a lasting impression.

A delightful extra: a whole range of activities are on offer. Excursions by minibus to uncover the hidden treasures of the island’s north and south, and snorkelling gear and canoes-kayaks provided for aquatic adventures. For cycling enthusiasts, bikes are also available for rent to explore Lifou at our own pace.